3-day hike to get to gulch

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Coyote Gulch has it all -- massive arches, natural bridges, waterfalls, hanging gardens and American Indian history, all set within a lovely riparian plant community surrounded by high canyon walls of fiery Navajo sandstone.

Located in the western canyons of the Escalante River in south central Utah, this backpacking locale is a great one, and now through early June and again in the fall are the best times to go.

The hike involves traveling to the Escalante River and back, about 25 miles round-trip. Plan on three days.

Except for the distance it's an easy hike; the elevation loss of about 2,000 feet is pretty much evenly spaced over the entire route, and most of that route is over gentle terrain.

There are a few ways to access Coyote Gulch but Hurricane Wash is the most commonly used trailhead.

Here you can self-register for the free and mandatory backcountry use permit and attach it to your pack, and be on your way.

This permit will be good for your entire trip even though you will be traveling through both Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

The first few miles of the hike are an exercise in patience as the trail is fully exposed to the sun, sinks in deep sand and crosses a dry desert scrubland.

Soon though, everything changes and you'll be traveling through a wonderland of water, hiking in and along a perennial flowing stream, flanked by Fremont cottonwoods, desert willow and, this time of year, blooming wildflowers all tucked within the canyon walls of Navajo sandstone. Every bend and curve in the stream course is an opportunity to see new and enchanting bits of nature.

You will find hanging gardens everywhere, primarily made up of maidenhair ferns, but interspersed throughout with cardinal monkeyflowers, alcove bog orchids and alcove columbine. These water-loving plants flourish thanks to the seeps that come from cracks in the sandstone walls.

The first major landmark is Jacob Hamlin Arch, which spans 100 feet within a thick fin of Navajo sandstone. The streamcourse flows around the arch to the right and passes under an enormous alcove.

On the downstream side of the arch, on your left tucked within the maidenhair ferns is a natural spring that pours directly out from the cliff wall.

This is one of those rare places you can drink cold, clear water directly from the source without treating it. Besides this spring, all other drinking water must be treated.

As you continue down the gulch, the curves and bends in the canyon bring you to waterfalls, cascades and interesting sandstone formations and even a few places with deep pools of water.

The next highlight is Coyote Natural Bridge which spans about 100 feet and you walk directly under it.

Keep your eye out for evidence of prehistoric occupation. The Fremont Indians are thought to have lived here from about 700 to 1300 A.D. and left confirmation in the way of petroglyphs and pictographs. If you are very observant you might also notice one of the many granaries, which the Fremont constructed to store their food. These are often found high up on the canyon walls under protected areas like overhangs and alcoves.

There are many fine places to set up your camp along the way, including inside protected overhangs and on high sandy benches.

Remember -- your site should be at the very least 100 feet away from water sources and always avoid setting up on any vegetation or cryptobiotic soil, and no campfires.

For privacy, avoid the arches and bridges, for these tend to be meeting places for groups of people.

Once you reach the confluence with the Escalante River, turn left and you'll be standing near the base of Stephens Arch, the fifth largest in canyon country.

The arch spans 250 feet rising and is 600 feet above the canyon floor -- one of the most spectacular sights along the entire Escalante River.

Explore upstream as your time allows. If you have the time, plan in advance to spend an extra few days exploring the Escalante and some of the side canyons upstream. This will turn an amazing backpack into a trip of a lifetime, adding plenty more adventure as well as solitude.

Before doing this trip, or any other of the Escalante canyons, it's imperative you stop in at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Information Center for a detailed map and up-to-date information regarding current conditions in the canyon and along the Hole-in-the-Rock Road, 755 W. Main St. The center is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. this time of year, and for shorter hours in winter. ?For more information, call (435) 826-5499, or visit www.ut.blm.gov/monument/ or www.nps.gov/glca/.

Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborah@hikingthewest.com.