Workshop will teach how to maximize fruit production

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Do you know how to get big fruit from your fruit trees? Have your grapes been the size of peas? Now you can see how to get picture perfect fruit and grapes at the Orchard in North Las Vegas. University of Nevada Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners are hosting a workshop from 9 a.m. to noon on Saturday at the orchard near the intersection of Horse Drive and North Decatur Boulevard.

There are more than 500 fruit trees in production including peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, apples, pears, persimmon, table and wine grapes, pluots, apriums and plumcots. In 2004, cane fruit, such as blackberries and raspberries, were added as well as nopal cactus from Sonora, Mexico. Working beehives that pollinate the fruit will be on display.

Master Gardeners will be on hand to show you how to thin and fertilize fruit trees and grapes. Do you like grapes? A special segment will be reserved on grapes and their care to make those bunches and berries even better. You will see the blackberries just now coming on and raspberries that actually grow in this area. The figs may be ready and you will see how to get trees to produce large fruit and loads of it. See our bees at work from university bee hives on the site and see how honey is made.

For those of you who have signed up for my electronic weekly newsletter, it will be delayed while our offices are moving until the week of next week when you will receive the last two weeks of newsletters at once.

These late freezes took out some fruit that would have been produced this year. Some fruit hit are peaches, nectarines and some early pluots. Most of the damage was minor but some of the tender citrus may have been hit hard if it was growing out in the open and unprotected. Bougainvillea, Cape Honeysuckle and other winter tender plants may have been damaged as well.

Do not prune or remove plants for at least another month until you can determine the extent of the damage and take corrective actions. I will guide you through this process in upcoming columns.

Question: Is it OK to plant queen palms between the wall and a man-made rock waterfall which is four and a half feet apart?

Answer: Keep in mind that queen palms are not typically a good choice here unless you can modify the soil, keep them out of harsh winds and protect them from winter cold during some years. Plant them only if you realize they are an experiment for you and run the risk of losing them.

Palm roots typically do not have invasive roots that heave walls so it should be fine. The same is true for your next question.

Q: Is it OK to plant pygmy date palms between the wall and swimming pool deck which is three and a half to four feet apart?

A: The pygmy date palm performs best in the coastal areas of California but can be grown in the lower and middle deserts. But don't expect it to look like it does in San Diego. This palm will take our cold fairly easily down to about 18 F and will grow slowly to about 10 feet. This palm will require soil that has good drainage.

The cold weather will cause it to yellow, especially if the cold extends into the spring. Hot, dry winds will cause the fronds to brown on the tips with some slight dieback and may cause some damage to the fronds.

It will require frequent watering to keep it looking good, and good soil preparation in our desert soils. Mulch will help this palm. I would not put this palm into rock mulch but a wood mulch that can decompose. It should be fine in tight locations.

Q: How low can I keep my watering and fertilizing on the plants listed above to keep their growth at a minimum?

A: Plants have to grow at a certain rate just to maintain their health. If size is a problem then use slow growing palms with a shorter stature such as windmill palm and your pygmy date palm.

You will have problems if you try to skimp on fertilizer and water to reduce their size. They will look terrible and be subject to all types of health problems.

Q: Can the above grow along with additional plants such as nandina, Little John (dwarf bottlebrush), gardenia, sago palm, sweet broom and be on the same drip system with one valve? How many emitters should each one of them have?

A: By Little John you mean dwarf bottlebrush I assume. Most of these plants would be planted in an irrigation zone I would call "wet" or frequent watering. The only exception on irrigation of the above is sweet broom. It might surprise some but bottlebrush like Little John prefer moist soils even if it is from Australia.

Sweet broom might be OK if you have good drainage, but it can get root rot when watered frequently as you would need for the others.

As far as location in the yard and special care now that is a different problem all together. Gardenia needs special care compared to the others. The others can take direct sunlight but all, with the exception of sweet broom, will do better with organic mulch on the surface, heavily modified soil with lots of good quality organic matter added.

Sweet broom is the real exception in this list. I would use a different plant in this plant mix as well as substituting for the gardenia. These two are going to give you problems for two very different reasons. The sweet broom is an arid plant, the gardenia a tropical plant. Put the sweet broom with other desert plants and the gardenia will be a test of your gardening abilities in the desert.

Q: You gave some advice about watering deeply fruit trees and up to three times a week in midsummer. Is this true for citrus? I am concerned. They seem so sensitive to overwatering.

A: Unless your soil does not drain well, or your soil holds lots of water after an irrigation, then I would say it is probably correct.

During fruit development the fruit are very sensitive to a lack of water and it will affect their growth. The key is deep water and let it drain and dry the surface to about six inches or so. It will still be moist at about 12 inches. This will help the tree to become deeper rooted. Then irrigate again.

A soil moisture sensor, like you can get at nurseries for about $8, can be left in the soil around the tree to help know when to irrigate again. When the meter registers into the dry soil area on the meter, irrigate. Mulch helps to regulate soil moisture and helps prevent erratic swings from dry to wet and back again.

Q: I need all the information regarding Ficus nitida, it's care and growth in Las Vegas. Also I'm interested in the Japanese privet for the Las Vegas area. Please include what to fertilize and when for both.

A: Ficus nitida, also known as Indian Laurel Fig, should not be grown in the Las Vegas area outside unless you can put it in a very protected area such as a warm microclimate that can receive lots of protection. It will survive in Phoenix, Palm Springs area (Calif.), Lake Havasu (Ariz.) and Laughlin. Our area is just too cold since it will drop its leaves with any frost at all and die at temperatures in the low 20s. You can try it as an experiment but be prepared to lose it eventually.

Japanese privet on the other hand is hardy here but it needs to have its roots kept moist or it will drop its leaves and have branch dieback. It does well in a lawn for instance. It may struggle a bit in a rock landscape due to soil moisture problems. If it is put in a desert landscape just make sure there are plenty of other plants planted around it with drip irrigation and that will help keep the soil moist.

Bob Morris is a horticulture specialist with the University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.